I received email that requesting me to provide tutorial on the metallic PG OO raiser i made, so i decided to share it here as well.
And here is the tutorial on how i create my metallic PG OO Raiser. I can't show it in a video or adding picture on it as i already assemble the kit but i will try to describe the steps as much as possible.
as from the blog, all the material i use were showed in this link.
http://seven6398.blogspot.com/2011/02/pg-oo-raiser-metallic-verv-complete.html
but some other stuff that not show are just the stick, polystyrene and crocodile clip to hold the part for painting.
I'm using airbrush but not canned spray, so i can control the mixture of the paint and of course, better for the paint's cost. :)
Like usual, first step is all about snap and fit. Then try to study and remember the structure of the kit as much as possible.
After the snap and fit which i called it pre-assemble process (cause i won't snap it properly for most of the part so i can easily detach it for paint, but some other part that you don't plan to detach it and can paint it in one piece; then you can leave it), i will try to see whether what i should i add in ( the entire plan of the kit such as re-paint, adding pla-plate or panel line, customize the color scheme or other).
This also the part the that determine the amount of material, time and painting process ( like one painting process for the legs, arms, chest, waist and other to ease the usage of the compressor, even though my compressor is consider as medium or large size in hobby compressor but it still can overheat if use it for too long).
The next thing will be detaching all the part that need to be painted separately and this is also the process for cleaning nub marks, find the place where the parts can attach to the sticks or the crocodile clips. A very boring process where i need to sand all the nub marks away ( i do it in a lazy way which i only sand the surface that have nub marks but not the entire parts cause the Mr.surfacer will do for other surface)
Then, its painting time. Do care about the mixture of the paint.
-Surfacer plus thinner (Mr.surfacer 1200 plus Mr. Hobby thinner), ratio can be 1:3 or 2:4, it is depend on your painting style. Thicker mixture can ease the painting process by only two layers needed but might stuck the airbrush if too thick. Thinner mixture smooth the airbrush but it take few layer to make it look nice and also need further distance for the airbrush and parts that needed to paint. This theory can applied to other paint as well but not on the metal color cost the thickness of the original paint is thinner.
-after the priming process and before the color painting process, do check the surface of each part especially those parts that you're not going to separate it like the sliding mechanism on knees and the elbows. Bend it and prime the hiding surfaces. This process same for painting as well.
-the fingers part looks the most difficult part but its actually quite easy. You can choose to separate all the parts for painting but if you feel those parts are too small then you can leave it in one piece and paint like the knees and elbows.
-so, the most interesting part is how to get the metallic look. I'm actually use the most simple way which all rely to the paint itself. I hate sanding so most of the time depend on high grade surfacer which is the Mr.Surfacer to create smooth surfaces but some surfaces with nub marks are still require sanding and i still add in surfacer on to of it.
-i use most of the metallic color such as metallic blue, metallic red and black steel color from Mr.hobby. Then the gold color from Mr.hobby again. i was thinking to use the silver chrome for the silver color to cover most of the white color parts but because i made a mistake on purchasing metal color alluminium, i mix it with metal color silver chrome. The result is actually better than just using metal color silver chrome cause the metal color alluminium give smoother surface then metal color silver chrome that stand alone. (thinner added and majority of the ratio fall more on Metal Color Alluminium)
-there is one annoying thing about the silver color is the color can be easily fall off if no top coat apply on it ( mine doesn't have top coat). So, if there is a layer of gloss coat on it will definitely make it look even nicer and can protect the paint.
-in terms of decal and marking, better use water slide type cause the dry decal can stick off the paint during the application. ( that's why i don't apply much decal here).
after all these, the kit is complete. As for the photo process, i think you can refer to the link i provide above.
as from the blog, all the material i use were showed in this link.
http://seven6398.blogspot.com/2011/02/pg-oo-raiser-metallic-verv-complete.html
but some other stuff that not show are just the stick, polystyrene and crocodile clip to hold the part for painting.
I'm using airbrush but not canned spray, so i can control the mixture of the paint and of course, better for the paint's cost. :)
Like usual, first step is all about snap and fit. Then try to study and remember the structure of the kit as much as possible.
After the snap and fit which i called it pre-assemble process (cause i won't snap it properly for most of the part so i can easily detach it for paint, but some other part that you don't plan to detach it and can paint it in one piece; then you can leave it), i will try to see whether what i should i add in ( the entire plan of the kit such as re-paint, adding pla-plate or panel line, customize the color scheme or other).
This also the part the that determine the amount of material, time and painting process ( like one painting process for the legs, arms, chest, waist and other to ease the usage of the compressor, even though my compressor is consider as medium or large size in hobby compressor but it still can overheat if use it for too long).
The next thing will be detaching all the part that need to be painted separately and this is also the process for cleaning nub marks, find the place where the parts can attach to the sticks or the crocodile clips. A very boring process where i need to sand all the nub marks away ( i do it in a lazy way which i only sand the surface that have nub marks but not the entire parts cause the Mr.surfacer will do for other surface)
Then, its painting time. Do care about the mixture of the paint.
-Surfacer plus thinner (Mr.surfacer 1200 plus Mr. Hobby thinner), ratio can be 1:3 or 2:4, it is depend on your painting style. Thicker mixture can ease the painting process by only two layers needed but might stuck the airbrush if too thick. Thinner mixture smooth the airbrush but it take few layer to make it look nice and also need further distance for the airbrush and parts that needed to paint. This theory can applied to other paint as well but not on the metal color cost the thickness of the original paint is thinner.
-after the priming process and before the color painting process, do check the surface of each part especially those parts that you're not going to separate it like the sliding mechanism on knees and the elbows. Bend it and prime the hiding surfaces. This process same for painting as well.
-the fingers part looks the most difficult part but its actually quite easy. You can choose to separate all the parts for painting but if you feel those parts are too small then you can leave it in one piece and paint like the knees and elbows.
-so, the most interesting part is how to get the metallic look. I'm actually use the most simple way which all rely to the paint itself. I hate sanding so most of the time depend on high grade surfacer which is the Mr.Surfacer to create smooth surfaces but some surfaces with nub marks are still require sanding and i still add in surfacer on to of it.
-i use most of the metallic color such as metallic blue, metallic red and black steel color from Mr.hobby. Then the gold color from Mr.hobby again. i was thinking to use the silver chrome for the silver color to cover most of the white color parts but because i made a mistake on purchasing metal color alluminium, i mix it with metal color silver chrome. The result is actually better than just using metal color silver chrome cause the metal color alluminium give smoother surface then metal color silver chrome that stand alone. (thinner added and majority of the ratio fall more on Metal Color Alluminium)
-there is one annoying thing about the silver color is the color can be easily fall off if no top coat apply on it ( mine doesn't have top coat). So, if there is a layer of gloss coat on it will definitely make it look even nicer and can protect the paint.
-in terms of decal and marking, better use water slide type cause the dry decal can stick off the paint during the application. ( that's why i don't apply much decal here).
after all these, the kit is complete. As for the photo process, i think you can refer to the link i provide above.
had been sick for few days.. can't start the painting process on HGUC Stark Jegan.. hope i can finish it by next week..
2 comments:
Another way to achieve metallic effect is to spray a base of silver and then go over that with the respective clear color. I've seen it a couple of times on Youtube.
Tom: yes.. that will give a great pearl effect on it too.. but it might need few layer to achieve the best result..
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